Semana Santa: Córdoba

~ Day 1 ~

Semana Santa = Easter/Spring break! Unbeknownst to us, Semana Santa is literally a week (semana) of celebration! We thought it would just be a weekend celebration (weekend of Easter), but nope! It was a week of crazy long, busy and packed processions! The experience was amazing, but definitely was not prepared for it!

Our first stop for Semana Santa was Córdoba. For this leg of the trip, Erika joined us from Denmark after visiting us for a couple days in Madrid. Córdoba was first established by the Romans, then the Catholics, Moors, and then the Catholics again. Córdoba was a great first stop -- a small/medium sized city with plenty of things to see. The first day we walked around and just enjoyed exploring the beautiful streets. The yellow streets reminded me of Itzmal in Mexico. I loved it! I was having nostalgia even though I've never been there before...it was really amazing.

The first night we went to a restaurant recommended by Willa's cousin's cousin. It was really good. However, we got this traditional dish called "Flamenquines" which is basically a fried, meat roll. It wasn't very good to us because it was too meaty and chewy...but I am glad we tried it because it is Córdoban and I think it's important to try regional foods.

Because the city was smaller, we got more intimate views of the processions which was really great! At the same time, because the streets were so small, every street was unreasonably packed (even more so than Sevilla I would say even though it's much bigger). People were way more aggressive here and there was not much regulation of the processions. We often encountered dirty looks for trying to get AWAY from the crowds. We also often found people using their BABIES and CHILDREN to get through the crowd! We got some amazingly creepy views of the processions at night (creepy just because of how dark it was with Nazarenos wearing black costumes, the silence, and the incense in the air).

^(procession starts at a church and they bring everything out -- even huge floats! Floats are not like in the USA, they are carried by individuals who are underneath)

^(starting them early)

Nazarenos: people who participate in the processions of Semana Santa who wear robes, capes and a pointy, cone shaped hat/mask.

^(this is just one starting point. There are many across the city in different places depending on the brotherhood)

^(fit this through the archway of the church...barely!)

It was alarming for us to see these people in these costumes due to our association of them with the KKK. However, the masking of the face in this dressing represents the mourning for the death of Jesus and a sign of shame for sins committed. We were also told the hats help them be closer to God...not sure how true this is. So, while shocking, these processions don't have anything to do with the KKK, although some theorize that the KKK were perhaps inspired by the outfits of this tradition and the reactions they solicit.

~ Day 2 ~

^(up early enough to see the sunrise on our way to the Mosque of Córdoba)

On our second day in Córdoba, Erika and I woke up early and went to Mosque of Córdoba since we could get free entry. It was super cold inside, but really, really worth it. It was built over time, section by section by different people. We didn't know this until after we had visited, but upon learning that fact, we were like "Oh! That makes sense why the inside sometimes felt different/divided". Because we could tell, but we didn't realize it was because it was built over years and years, we just figured it was how the architect has planned.

Day two also included a free walking tour with a really, really great tour guide. She gave us a lot of information and walked us all over the city. Here are some highlights:

^Corredera Square: looks like Plaza Mayor in Madrid. This is where they had bull fights.

^Plaza del Potro (little horse/foal): Where they had a market for animals -- like horses!

^Rafael = archangel = protector of Cordoba. Became the protector due to the Black Death. He supposedly protected the city from the Black Death. He is all over the city.

^Alcazar fortress: Mary, Queen of Portugal. Her husband King Alfonso 11th build this Residence of Kings. However, he didn't build it for her. He built it for his mistress. It's said that he really did love his Portugal lover, although he started the affair to have more children/heirs (10 we were told)! He built a Hammam for her inside the Alcazar. However, of course Mary didn't like this and talked to her father, who had the mistress killed because she made the Queen unhappy. In the end, the bastard son won the eventual battle between the true heirs and mistress's children for the throne. Isabella II lived in Alhambra while planning the conquering of Granada. It was also used as a jail for Muslims. It was also used as a outpost for the inquisition and as a jail for it too, which contributed to the depreciation of the building.

^Maimonides - Jewish philosopher, doctor...you are supposed to touch his feet to feel/be wiser. Not sure if I felt the wisdom flowing after touching his feet but...maybe. He is part of the 3 points of wisdom (3 prominent philosophers who have statues in and around the Jewish quarter): Maimonides, Seneca, Averroes

^Roman Temple remains -- from when Córdoba was inhabited by the Romans. There is a sandpit in the middle to help absorb energy from earthquakes so the columns don't fall over. Some of the pillars have been reconstructed however.

Afterwards, we went to the Alcazar, which was beautiful (on the tour we just walked by. We didn't go inside until now)! Because of the gardens and fountains outside, I would say it is my top Alcazar (above). We had a lot of fun taking pictures here. Some are below:

^(Willa, me, Erika)

^(QT)

^(salta!)

^(made her go crouch by these flowers for a picture. Worth it)

We stopped for lunch afterwards, as we were quite drained.

We tried Salmorejo (above), which is also a traditional Córdoban food. It was pretty good, although not my favorite. Again, glad I tried it and would recommend, but wouldn't get for myself again.

We found the Calleja de las Flores (above).

Then we crossed the Roman Bridge towards the Calahorra Tower and soaked up the sun for a little. We didn't want to get trapped in the processions again, so we didn't stay too long.

Once rested, we went to Mercado Victoria (above) for drinks and dinner and did our best to avoid the processions. We ran into a few just beginning on our way over. Once there, we enjoyed a cute, relaxing atmosphere and company. When we finally dared to venture back, the processions where still in full swing, but we were able to get back to our hostel without as much trouble as before thank goodness.

This is when we saw the Nazarenos in black -- the creepiest time we saw them. Before that, we had only seen the Nazarenos in the daylight.

~ Day 3 ~

On our way out of Córdoba, we stopped at Palacio de Viana and took some pictures (above). Then we spent an hour or so at a nice little park before getting on the train and heading to Sevilla to meet up with Jane (who was flying in from Japan, then taking a bus from Madrid to meet us).