Morocco: Fes

DAY 7

The best tour we had was in Fes (Fez). Fes is so big (the biggest in the world I have been told)! I was especially grateful to have the vans to drive us around to each point. First, we stopped at the Fes Palace doors. As with the other architecture in Morocco, all of it was hand crafted and made/decorated piece by piece. Absolutely beautiful (one of the doors below).

Then we went climbed back into the vans and were shuttled to a viewpoint atop a hill to get a nice view of Fes. Our tour guide pointed out the University of Quaraquiyine, identified by it's green roofs. It was founded in 859 by a woman and is the oldest university in the world.

After, we went to a tile factory where we got to see the process of how they make and decorate pottery and the amazing tiled pieces we'd seen all over.

The pottery wasn't really anything few for me (thank you Blenders for all of the pottery field trips), although it was still amazing to witness the process.

We also got to see an old kiln. Apparently, once olives are drained of their oil, the dried remains are used as fuel for the kilns.

The really cool thing for me was seeing how people make the tile patterns. The artist basically already has to have the idea or image in their head of what the pattern will look like, as they make the pattern upside down/from the back (see picture below for an idea). The colors are face down on the floor so they can't be sure of what they have until it's fully complete! It requires a great memory and imagination to be sure!

Although tempting, we didn't buy anything.

Next, we entered the Medina. It is HUGE and so easy to get lost in. I loved every second of it. Our tour guide told us if we got separated, to stay put and not move because it is so easy to get lost and it's easier for them to come back and find us. Our trip leader Jorge brought up the back of the group so hopefully that wouldn't happen (and it didn't - had a close call at one point but the group did well).

One of the most interesting facts I learned on this trip was actually about doors. Moroccan homes in Fes usually have two doors, one within the other. The bigger one is for a man riding a horse so he can enter without dismounting. The smaller door within it is just for people. What's cool is that you can't tell from the outside how wealthy a family is until you go inside (unless they didn't have two doors at all and only a small door, then you could assume the family wasn't as wealthy because they couldn't afford a horse).

We also stopped at wood making stalls and a cooper plaza. I didn't realize these were also prominent craftships, but it makes sense. We also saw the Najjarine Fountain - one of the most well known fountains, but to me it didn't really stand out that much. Of course it was beautiful and intricately made, but it looked to me like many other fountains we had seen in Morocco. It was in the courtyard (el Nejjorine - Carpenter's Square) that lead to the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. We didn't go in there though. We briefly stopped to take pictures and then were on our way.

We then stopped at a leather store to get an overview of the Tannerie Chouara (below and the first picture in this post).

It didn't smell great, but we got to see those famous Fes tannerie views. What was interesting to me is that the people working in the tannerie didn't look like really big, built guys. But jeez, they must have been strong in order to wash, heave and carry those huge, heavy and soaked hides. They have cow, goat, and even camel skins!

Lastly, we stopped at a fabric store and got to see them using big weaving machines to make fabric. It was a packed tour, but I liked it so much and found all of the sights, smells and sounds amazing. Then we made our way out of the maze, ready for food. Frustratingly for Brad, we ended up at a fancy buffet lunch with barely any Moroccan food. Funnily enough, they had paella! But it really wasn't worth the money we paid as it was very average. That's the one downside about tours - sometimes you can't choose where you eat!

^(The university)

Finally, we arrived in Chefchaouen - the Blue City!